“Do you still feel the chocolate magic?”
I was catching up with my friend and colleague Shobitha when she asked me that question.
“Yes,” I immediately said.
Although a lot has changed since the 37 Chocolates challenge, I keep discovering show-stopping bars that help me renew my vows with that magical food. Most recently, I found Paris to be an exciting place for chocolate. Whether that’s a new bean-to-bar maker or a change in ownership at a well-established company, the City of Lights is filled with chocolate surprises.
In this post, which is the third installment of The Craft Chocolate-Lover’s Guide to Paris series, I’ll share the highlights of my 2023 visit. These spots will appeal to fine chocolate lovers who enjoy a high percentage dark chocolate bar as much as well-crafted confection. Bookmark this post for your next trip and remember to revisit Part 1 and Part 2. I’ll soon compile them in a single PDF file with tips to make the most of your trip – sign up for the newsletter to be notified of its release.
Chocolat Chapon
Originally Buckingham Palace’s dedicated ice cream maker, Patrice Chapon established Chocolat Chapon in 1986 in Chelles, a suburb of Paris. Similar to renowned French brands like Bonnat, Cluizel, or Pralus, the company specializes in bean-to-bar chocolate production, sourcing cacao beans from various origins and crafting them into chocolate.
Chapon remained somewhat under the radar in the French chocolate scene until the company unveiled its “bar à mousse” (chocolate mousse bar) at the Salon du Chocolat in 2006. It was instant success. Chocolate mousse is the most popular French dessert (every French person, myself included, has made the recipe on the back of a Nestlé baking bar), so the concept captured the media attention, catapulting Chapon into the spotlight.
During my visit to the Rue du Bac shop last June, I indulged in a cup of mousse made with 100% Venezuelan chocolate, with just 40g of sugar added to the entire batch. It was, hands down, the most delicious mousse I’ve ever tasted – simultaneously dense and fluffy, bursting with rich chocolate flavor. I scraped every drop from my cone-shaped paper cup.
The single origin bars I selected were equally outstanding. In fact, the 70% Venezuelan Porcelana ranked among the top three bars I sampled in 2023. While Chapon bars had previously been hit-or-miss for me, I now look forward to trying their 25 single origin varieties, including those from Ecuador, Madagascar, and Bolivia. I’m especially intrigued by the licorice and tonka bean white chocolate bar, which tops my chocolate wish list.
It’ll be interesting to observe Chocolat Chapon’s evolution in the near future. In 2022, François Chapon sold 90% of the company shares to the investment group FrenchFood Capital. The new CEO, Cédric Taravella, has ambitious plans for Chapon, including expanding the number of Parisian shops. As long as the chocolate bars and mousses are as swoon-worthy as last year, I’ll remain a happy customer.
Chocolat Chapon
69 rue du Bac
75007 Paris
Opening hours:
Monday: 2:00 PM – 8:00 PM
Tuesday-Saturday: 9:00 AM – 8:00 PM
Sunday: 9:00 AM – 3:00 PM
L’Artisan du Chocolat
The best chocolate in Paris… may not be in Paris. Wait, what?
A bean-to-bar maker, Abdel El Baïz founded l’Artisan du Chocolat in the Western suburbs of Paris after a stint at La Maison du Chocolat and a cacao-centered trip to Ecuador. In addition to a range of single origin 78% bars, Abdel offers delicious confections like chocolate-covered candied oranges and rochers. Customers consistently line up for the signature “Noisettes de l’Évêque” [the bishop’s hazelnuts], which are a cross between a truffle and a rocher. After trying Abdel’s creations, I feel comfortable saying that L’Artisan du Chocolat tops my 2023 list of bean-to-bar chocolate in France. The 78% Haiti dark chocolate tastes like chocolate pudding with spices. It’s perfect.
You’ll find L’Artisan du Chocolat products in two small towns where most tourists won’t venture, but perhaps you will? The original workshop is the only business in Evecquemont, a village of 750 people known for its château and spotty cell phone reception. The second location is in Triel-sur-Seine, a larger town accessible from Paris by train. The café/shop serves drinks with an unbeatable view on the Seine river.
L’Artisan du Chocolat
23A rue de Chollet
78740 Evecquemont
Opening hours:
Monday, Tuesday: CLOSED
Wednesday: 9:00 AM – 12:00 PM; 2:00 PM – 7:30 PM
Thursday: CLOSED
Friday: 2:00 pm – 7:30 pm
Saturday: 9:00 am – 12:00 pm, 2:00 pm – 7:30 pm
Sunday: 10:00 am – 2:00 pm
Place Philippe Prévost
78510 Triel-sur-Seine
Monday: CLOSED
Tuesday – Saturday: 10:00 am – 2:00 pm; 3-7 pm
Sunday: CLOSED
Debauve et Gallais
Can we talk about Parisian chocolate without talking about one of the oldest chocolate shops in the city? I think not.
Debauve et Gallais was once known for being “the chocolate of the kings” and by “kings” we’re talking Louis XVIII and Charles X, who reigned in the 1800’s, both after the French Revolution and Napoleon I’s rule. This is an era referred to as Restoration.
A former pharmacist, Sulpice Debauve created chocolate pistoles or little chocolate disks that made Marie-Antoinette’s medicine more palatable. In 1800, or 11 years after the French Revolution, Sulpice left his pharmacy behind to open a chocolate shop in Paris. It didn’t take long for Sulpice to crush his business goals and, in just 4 years, he opened 65 “dépôts” aka franchise locations throughout France.
In 1823, soon after getting his first awards, he partnered with his nephew and fellow pharmacist Auguste Gallais. Together, they developed “diet chocolate” made with almond milk, vanilla, and orange blossom. Debauve and his nephew continued growing the company by sticking to quality and innovating. I was stunned to discover they invented Lactoline aka dehydrated chocolate milk before milk powder was a thing.
A true chocolate steward, Auguste Gallais wrote Monographie du cacao in 1827 to spread knowledge about cacao. If you read French, I HIGHLY recommend you get the book which blew me away by its accessible language and relevant content.
Today, Debauve et Gallais has two locations in Paris, where you’ll find the famous pistoles, chocolates, and bars as well as teas. The cherry cordial bonbons are apparently fantastic. Last year, a gentleman came in a rush asking for a box of them. The shopkeepers told him it would take 10 minute to prepare their order, so the customer told his taxi driver to wait a few more minutes. Leave it to French to wait for good food.
With new CEO Domitille Jollois at its helm, the company is going through a series of exciting changes, starting with a beautiful, fresh rebrand. I can’t wait to sit down with Domitille and learn more about her vision for this institution.
Debauve et Gallais Flagship Store
30 Rue des Saints-Pères
75007 Paris
Opening hours:
Monday through Saturday 9–7 pm
Sunday: CLOSED
Debauve et Gallais Vivienne
33 Rue Vivienne
75002 Paris
Opening hours:
Monday through Friday: 9:30 a.m. – 7:30 p.m.
Saturday: 10:30 a.m. – 7:30 p.m.
Jade Genin
Jade Genin’s confections are my latest Parisian chocolate crush. The daughter of famed chocolatier Jacques Genin, Jade left a successful career as an attorney to start her own chocolate brand in 2022. Located near the Opera, a couple of doors down from pastry superstars Pierre Hermé and Cédric Grolet, the shop stands out with its minimalist, yet opulent aesthetic. Inside, the white walls and golden touch provide the perfect background for the naturally colored confections.
The signature product is the little pyramid which, at half the weight of a regular bonbon, delivers a burst of flavor in each bite. You’ll be surprised that the dark chocolate pyramids are completely vegan (water ganache). The mint one was my favorite, it tastes so pure, so fresh. The pyramids are packed in a gold metal box that you can bring back for a refill. Since the confections are small, you can taste several without overloading your palate. Jade intentionally designed the line that way.
I’m personally a fan of the delicate, gold-dusted rochers and of her work with pistachios (ooh, the spread). Interestingly, the young artisan picked couverture chocolate by Xoco Gourmet which is single varietal and made at origin.
In addition to being a phenomenal chocolatier, she’s also founding member of the Bondir-e association, whose mission is to help foster safer work cultures in professional kitchens.
With her crafts(wo)manship and sense of aesthetic, Jade is a breath of fresh air in the world of Parisian chocolate. You may check her shop out because of her last name, but you’ll come back for her modern, delicious, and very well crafted bites. Mark my words: this is just the beginning for Jade.
PS: You should see the lines at Cédric Grolet’s shop next door. Definitely pre-order online if you don’t want to return to your hotel empty-handed.
Jade Genin
33 Avenue de l’Opéra
75002 Paris
Opening hours :
Monday: CLOSED.
Tuesday-Friday: 11 am-7 pm.
Saturday: 11 am-7:30 pm
Sunday: 11:30 am-6:30 pm
Patrick Roger
If you’re heading to Paris soon, make time to check out one of the 7 Patrick Roger locations in the city. This French chocolatier and sculptor has a devoted following that swears by his chocolates — Patrick Roger sells 4 million pieces each holiday season across the world.
What’s so special about the chocolates? I tasted my way through one of the signature green boxes to find out.
The ganaches stood out with their very smooth texture and strong cacao aromas. The pralinés may have been the best I’ve had thanks to a strong nut content tamed by just a touch sugar. I loved the chocolate-covered orange slices. The signature product is the first chocolate the craftsman sold, a rocher called “Instint” or “Instinct” in English.
Fun fact: I remember finding the box heavy for its size when I left the shop and it took a while to realize why — the entire bottom is covered by a chocolate & nib bar.
What stood out the most from walking into one his sleek, black-colored shops was the creative freedom the French artisan lets himself have. From molding a huge chocolate sumo for the storefront to naming a candy bar S*X, Patrick Roger breaks all the codes of what a high end chocolate shop should be. Perhaps it’s that sense of freedom that keep his customers coming back.
Patrick Roger
7 locations across Paris, plus 2 in the suburbs. Check the Patrick Roger website for all 9 addresses.
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